Sunday, December 4, 2011

The Hibernation Of Tortoises

Tortoises in the wild respond to environmental signals around them to know when to begin their hibernation. Shorter days, cooler temperatures, and less available prey are signs that the turtle heeds to start the long period of rest. Turtle owners can help their pets slip into hibernation in ways that would be comfortable and suitable for them. For turtles that would hibernate outdoors, you can dig a burrow or a pit in their pen. Piling up leaves on large plastic containers can also be used to make the area more suitable for hibernation. The turtle's hibernation period can also be a bit misleading. It may seem to you that your pets are displaying activities you take as signs of their easing into hibernation, when in fact they may be experiencing some health issues. Prior to hibernation, turtles wind down and eat less than usual. As an owner, you should be careful to take note if your turtle has a runny nose, is underweight, or appears injured, distinguishing these indicators as signs of ill health, rather than preparation for hibernation. Only healthy turtles should be allowed to hibernate.

Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem. The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly. The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.

During hibernation, it should also be the pet owner's responsibility to monitor the turtle's hydration, appearance, and activity. You should take note if there is an apparent weight loss in the turtle so that you can have it rehydrated or warmed. If the turtle has difficulty in breathing or is overly active in the period in which it is supposed to be hibernating, the temperature is most likely too warm, and the turtle is spending more energy than needed. If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided. A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.

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